A Breath of "Fresh" Air

Kathmandu, Nepal

We did sleep through new years, although I was temporarily roused by the cannon-like fireworks. I think they go for sound over visual in Delhi because there is no way you could possibly see fireworks through the smog. For our last day in Delhi we got on a bus tour of the city which brought us around to some of the popular sights. One highlight for us were the India gate, where we were something of an attraction ourselves among the Indian tourists several posed for pictures with us while others handed over their wives or babies to be photographed with the westerners. Another was the Baha'i temple, a fantastic structure in the shape of a 27 leaf lotus blossom. Unfortunately, the crowds were so thick here that we couldn't get very close, but it was amazing even from a distance.

The Baha'i Temple in New Delhi

We got back to the hotel and did our best to freshen up in our ascetic accommodations, and headed out to a superb meal at the Spice Route restaurant at the Imperial hotel (thanks Danielle and Lee!). At this point we discovered where all the westerners had been hiding. This place was over-the-top, both in terms of food and service, but was priced similar to a typical restaurant in Cambridge. The fragrant, filtered atmosphere seemed a world away from the dingy Delhi streets just outside.

First thing in the morning, we rushed out to the red fort where we were the first ones in the gate when it opened. The f(sm)og was so thick, you would get very close to the buildings before they would fade into view. It was very dramatic. A nice group of employees at the fort gave us some of their piping hot chai, which was a real treat. Then it was back to Connaught for a quick Cappuccino at Cafe Coffee Day (highly recommended) before we grabbed a tut-tut (three-wheeled, motorized rickshaw) for the 20km trip to the airport (brisk!).

In the midst of a host of f(sm)og related delays and cancellations, our flight to Kathmandu got out on time and we lifted quickly up out of the cloud. During another excellent Jet Air flight (a full meal served during a 90 minute hop, with free beer!) we observed what appeared to be a thin line of clouds on the northern horizon solidify into continuous line of snow-capped mountain tops, that were almost as high as we were. When we touched down at a sunny, 65 degree Kathmandu at the foot of the Himalayas, it felt like paradise.

Prayer Flags Welcome us to Nepal

Despite our guide book's warnings of near-apolcalyptic traffic and choking smog, we found Kathmandu to be charming and pleasant next to our most recent environs. Our hotel is amazing. We booked a deluxe room for $19/night and were thrilled when they put us in a 6th floor penthouse with a huge rooftop terrace. Free airport pickup and internet were included as well! We have spent the day exploring the city's Thamel area and are really enjoying it. It's almost a shame, but we are leaving tomorrow for Pokhara, springboard to some of the coutry's most popular trekking routes. We head out on a 7am 7-hour bus ride, which is said to have some superb scenery. More pictures soon!