Bangkok, Thailand
We arrived last night in Bangkok, and it's a lot warmer here. Now we are laying low for a couple days and trying to plan the next phase of our trip. We did some mountain biking around Kathmandu, which was great. I don't have time to put up pictures right now, but will do soon.
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Be Vewy Vewy Quiet, We're Hunting Whinos
Sauraha, Nepal
Well, it turns out that if everyone was jumping off a cliff, we'd do it too. At the time of booking, a walking safari didn't seem so crazy... But as we got off the dugout canoe and crossed into the Chitwan National Park as the first visitors of the day, I started to panic. Looking for rhinos and tigers on foot suddenly did not seem like a smart idea. The next ten minutes were some of the longest of my life. When some wild elephants roared nearby I almost ran. But our two guides were steady, and they were "armed" with sticks. So onwards we walked into the foggy jungle which made the whole scene even scarier. It got scarier still when we got into the foggy open grasslands and there were no more trees that could potentially provide refuge. Out in the open, I stayed as close as I could to the guide.
As we walked down the path we sporadically startled deer ( four types in the park, we saw two types), peacocks, and wild chickens. Out in the grasslands, we repeatedly saw rhino tracks and fresh dung and even tiger footprints. While walking along a river trying to catch sight of animals at the watering hole we heard a rustling and a grunt on the other side of the river. With the elephant grass so high, we couldn't see the animal, but our guides told us it was a bear sloth. We were beginning to think the rhinos had gotten the better of us, when we rounded a tuft of elephant grass... And walked up to a rhino only 30 feet away. Wow! The initial shock gave way to the understanding that rhinos are not usually aggressive and are pretty much just armored cows.
We finished the walking safari with few other sightings, and rounded out the day with a jeep safari. This was decidedly less exciting, but we did see "mugger" crocodiles, monkeys, and some more deer. We also went to a gharial (crocodile) breeding center. Oh, and there was a partial solar eclipse to boot.
The highlight of today was the third type of safari, an elephant safari. We clambered onto the top of a waiting elephant which we shared with a young German couple. The ride was not very smooth, but from our vantage point we could survey the whole jungle and approach wildlife without startling it. This was especially surprising to us because we had never seen a deer that was not running away, but the elephants were of no bother to them. At one point there were five elephants surrounding a rhino mom and baby and they didn't even flinch.
After the three safaris with four separate rhino sightings, we feel we are ready to head back north to Kathmandu for some more sightseeing and maybe some biking too.
Well, it turns out that if everyone was jumping off a cliff, we'd do it too. At the time of booking, a walking safari didn't seem so crazy... But as we got off the dugout canoe and crossed into the Chitwan National Park as the first visitors of the day, I started to panic. Looking for rhinos and tigers on foot suddenly did not seem like a smart idea. The next ten minutes were some of the longest of my life. When some wild elephants roared nearby I almost ran. But our two guides were steady, and they were "armed" with sticks. So onwards we walked into the foggy jungle which made the whole scene even scarier. It got scarier still when we got into the foggy open grasslands and there were no more trees that could potentially provide refuge. Out in the open, I stayed as close as I could to the guide.
As we walked down the path we sporadically startled deer ( four types in the park, we saw two types), peacocks, and wild chickens. Out in the grasslands, we repeatedly saw rhino tracks and fresh dung and even tiger footprints. While walking along a river trying to catch sight of animals at the watering hole we heard a rustling and a grunt on the other side of the river. With the elephant grass so high, we couldn't see the animal, but our guides told us it was a bear sloth. We were beginning to think the rhinos had gotten the better of us, when we rounded a tuft of elephant grass... And walked up to a rhino only 30 feet away. Wow! The initial shock gave way to the understanding that rhinos are not usually aggressive and are pretty much just armored cows.
We finished the walking safari with few other sightings, and rounded out the day with a jeep safari. This was decidedly less exciting, but we did see "mugger" crocodiles, monkeys, and some more deer. We also went to a gharial (crocodile) breeding center. Oh, and there was a partial solar eclipse to boot.
The highlight of today was the third type of safari, an elephant safari. We clambered onto the top of a waiting elephant which we shared with a young German couple. The ride was not very smooth, but from our vantage point we could survey the whole jungle and approach wildlife without startling it. This was especially surprising to us because we had never seen a deer that was not running away, but the elephants were of no bother to them. At one point there were five elephants surrounding a rhino mom and baby and they didn't even flinch.
After the three safaris with four separate rhino sightings, we feel we are ready to head back north to Kathmandu for some more sightseeing and maybe some biking too.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
One More Picture- Prayer Flags and Peaks
Today we have one more day in Pokhara and then we go to southern Nepal for a safari. We hope to see some rhinos and tigers if we are lucky. Here is a picture we missed in yesterday's post although it was one of my favorite moments in the trek high atop a ridge overlooking the peaks. We learned that each of the colors of the prayer flags stand for a different element: fire, water, earth, air, and ether (kind of like the planeteers). They have an image of the wind god to carry the prayers to the corners of the earth.
Trek Summary
Pokhara, Nepal
After Poon Hill, we trekked along a ridge with dramatic views of the Annapurna Range. From our viewpoint, the peaks appeared both enormous and practically within reach. However, they were actually more than 20 km away, meaning their true size was even greater than they appeared. In fact, these peaks were nearly three times higher than the mountains we climbed!
The teahouse trek was logistically much easier than we expected, even without a guide, which let us finally relax and enjoy our surroundings. We got an up-close view of the lifestyle of the local Gurung people. The terraced fields surrounding their homes were full of rice, canola flowers, veggies, yaks, chickens and goats. We shared the stone-paved paths and stairways with herds of mountain goats, pony caravans, porters and uniformed school children. It was a really peaceful and beautiful place to spend a week.
After Poon Hill, we trekked along a ridge with dramatic views of the Annapurna Range. From our viewpoint, the peaks appeared both enormous and practically within reach. However, they were actually more than 20 km away, meaning their true size was even greater than they appeared. In fact, these peaks were nearly three times higher than the mountains we climbed!
The teahouse trek was logistically much easier than we expected, even without a guide, which let us finally relax and enjoy our surroundings. We got an up-close view of the lifestyle of the local Gurung people. The terraced fields surrounding their homes were full of rice, canola flowers, veggies, yaks, chickens and goats. We shared the stone-paved paths and stairways with herds of mountain goats, pony caravans, porters and uniformed school children. It was a really peaceful and beautiful place to spend a week.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
10,000 Feet
Ghorepani, Nepal
Today marks day three of our trek in Nepal. We are sitting at 10,000 feet and somehow there is internet access. Our first day we hiked from Nayapul to Tikedhunga during which we had beautiful views of terraced fields as we walked through several villages. We then had to climb 500m up a stone stair case to Ulleri and then onto Ghorepani another 800m through a beautiful oak and rhododendron forest (sad that the flowers were not in bloom but still pretty). With very achy legs after 6 hours of trekking we arrived at Ghorepani and were treated to a spectacular panorama view of the Annapurna Range. We ate dinner while watching the light change on the mountains. It really took our breath away.
This morning we climbed up Poon Hill (another 300m) to watch the sunrise over the great peaks. With our wobbly legs it was tough but worth it. We didn’t even have to share the view with too many people. I guess that’s the benefit of traveling in the off-season. With several more hours of trekking to go today, we better get going.
Today marks day three of our trek in Nepal. We are sitting at 10,000 feet and somehow there is internet access. Our first day we hiked from Nayapul to Tikedhunga during which we had beautiful views of terraced fields as we walked through several villages. We then had to climb 500m up a stone stair case to Ulleri and then onto Ghorepani another 800m through a beautiful oak and rhododendron forest (sad that the flowers were not in bloom but still pretty). With very achy legs after 6 hours of trekking we arrived at Ghorepani and were treated to a spectacular panorama view of the Annapurna Range. We ate dinner while watching the light change on the mountains. It really took our breath away.
This morning we climbed up Poon Hill (another 300m) to watch the sunrise over the great peaks. With our wobbly legs it was tough but worth it. We didn’t even have to share the view with too many people. I guess that’s the benefit of traveling in the off-season. With several more hours of trekking to go today, we better get going.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Trek Preparation
Pokhara, Nepal
We've spent the past couple of days getting ready for our trek; we got our treking permits, rented sleeping bags, bought a detailed map (although we were assured that it was no necessary), and rested up. We've enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere lakeside staring up at the dominating peaks of the Annapurna range. Can't wait to see them closer up! We are not sure how much internet access will be available during our teahouse trek, so if we disappear for a week or so, do not be alarmed.
We've spent the past couple of days getting ready for our trek; we got our treking permits, rented sleeping bags, bought a detailed map (although we were assured that it was no necessary), and rested up. We've enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere lakeside staring up at the dominating peaks of the Annapurna range. Can't wait to see them closer up! We are not sure how much internet access will be available during our teahouse trek, so if we disappear for a week or so, do not be alarmed.
Sunday, January 3, 2010
A Breath of "Fresh" Air
Kathmandu, Nepal
We did sleep through new years, although I was temporarily roused by the cannon-like fireworks. I think they go for sound over visual in Delhi because there is no way you could possibly see fireworks through the smog. For our last day in Delhi we got on a bus tour of the city which brought us around to some of the popular sights. One highlight for us were the India gate, where we were something of an attraction ourselves among the Indian tourists several posed for pictures with us while others handed over their wives or babies to be photographed with the westerners. Another was the Baha'i temple, a fantastic structure in the shape of a 27 leaf lotus blossom. Unfortunately, the crowds were so thick here that we couldn't get very close, but it was amazing even from a distance.
We got back to the hotel and did our best to freshen up in our ascetic accommodations, and headed out to a superb meal at the Spice Route restaurant at the Imperial hotel (thanks Danielle and Lee!). At this point we discovered where all the westerners had been hiding. This place was over-the-top, both in terms of food and service, but was priced similar to a typical restaurant in Cambridge. The fragrant, filtered atmosphere seemed a world away from the dingy Delhi streets just outside.
First thing in the morning, we rushed out to the red fort where we were the first ones in the gate when it opened. The f(sm)og was so thick, you would get very close to the buildings before they would fade into view. It was very dramatic. A nice group of employees at the fort gave us some of their piping hot chai, which was a real treat. Then it was back to Connaught for a quick Cappuccino at Cafe Coffee Day (highly recommended) before we grabbed a tut-tut (three-wheeled, motorized rickshaw) for the 20km trip to the airport (brisk!).
In the midst of a host of f(sm)og related delays and cancellations, our flight to Kathmandu got out on time and we lifted quickly up out of the cloud. During another excellent Jet Air flight (a full meal served during a 90 minute hop, with free beer!) we observed what appeared to be a thin line of clouds on the northern horizon solidify into continuous line of snow-capped mountain tops, that were almost as high as we were. When we touched down at a sunny, 65 degree Kathmandu at the foot of the Himalayas, it felt like paradise.
Prayer Flags Welcome us to Nepal
Despite our guide book's warnings of near-apolcalyptic traffic and choking smog, we found Kathmandu to be charming and pleasant next to our most recent environs. Our hotel is amazing. We booked a deluxe room for $19/night and were thrilled when they put us in a 6th floor penthouse with a huge rooftop terrace. Free airport pickup and internet were included as well! We have spent the day exploring the city's Thamel area and are really enjoying it. It's almost a shame, but we are leaving tomorrow for Pokhara, springboard to some of the coutry's most popular trekking routes. We head out on a 7am 7-hour bus ride, which is said to have some superb scenery. More pictures soon!
We did sleep through new years, although I was temporarily roused by the cannon-like fireworks. I think they go for sound over visual in Delhi because there is no way you could possibly see fireworks through the smog. For our last day in Delhi we got on a bus tour of the city which brought us around to some of the popular sights. One highlight for us were the India gate, where we were something of an attraction ourselves among the Indian tourists several posed for pictures with us while others handed over their wives or babies to be photographed with the westerners. Another was the Baha'i temple, a fantastic structure in the shape of a 27 leaf lotus blossom. Unfortunately, the crowds were so thick here that we couldn't get very close, but it was amazing even from a distance.
The Baha'i Temple in New Delhi
We got back to the hotel and did our best to freshen up in our ascetic accommodations, and headed out to a superb meal at the Spice Route restaurant at the Imperial hotel (thanks Danielle and Lee!). At this point we discovered where all the westerners had been hiding. This place was over-the-top, both in terms of food and service, but was priced similar to a typical restaurant in Cambridge. The fragrant, filtered atmosphere seemed a world away from the dingy Delhi streets just outside.
First thing in the morning, we rushed out to the red fort where we were the first ones in the gate when it opened. The f(sm)og was so thick, you would get very close to the buildings before they would fade into view. It was very dramatic. A nice group of employees at the fort gave us some of their piping hot chai, which was a real treat. Then it was back to Connaught for a quick Cappuccino at Cafe Coffee Day (highly recommended) before we grabbed a tut-tut (three-wheeled, motorized rickshaw) for the 20km trip to the airport (brisk!).
Prayer Flags Welcome us to NepalDespite our guide book's warnings of near-apolcalyptic traffic and choking smog, we found Kathmandu to be charming and pleasant next to our most recent environs. Our hotel is amazing. We booked a deluxe room for $19/night and were thrilled when they put us in a 6th floor penthouse with a huge rooftop terrace. Free airport pickup and internet were included as well! We have spent the day exploring the city's Thamel area and are really enjoying it. It's almost a shame, but we are leaving tomorrow for Pokhara, springboard to some of the coutry's most popular trekking routes. We head out on a 7am 7-hour bus ride, which is said to have some superb scenery. More pictures soon!
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