Pokhara, Nepal
We've spent the past couple of days getting ready for our trek; we got our treking permits, rented sleeping bags, bought a detailed map (although we were assured that it was no necessary), and rested up. We've enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere lakeside staring up at the dominating peaks of the Annapurna range. Can't wait to see them closer up! We are not sure how much internet access will be available during our teahouse trek, so if we disappear for a week or so, do not be alarmed.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Sunday, January 3, 2010
A Breath of "Fresh" Air
Kathmandu, Nepal
We did sleep through new years, although I was temporarily roused by the cannon-like fireworks. I think they go for sound over visual in Delhi because there is no way you could possibly see fireworks through the smog. For our last day in Delhi we got on a bus tour of the city which brought us around to some of the popular sights. One highlight for us were the India gate, where we were something of an attraction ourselves among the Indian tourists several posed for pictures with us while others handed over their wives or babies to be photographed with the westerners. Another was the Baha'i temple, a fantastic structure in the shape of a 27 leaf lotus blossom. Unfortunately, the crowds were so thick here that we couldn't get very close, but it was amazing even from a distance.
We got back to the hotel and did our best to freshen up in our ascetic accommodations, and headed out to a superb meal at the Spice Route restaurant at the Imperial hotel (thanks Danielle and Lee!). At this point we discovered where all the westerners had been hiding. This place was over-the-top, both in terms of food and service, but was priced similar to a typical restaurant in Cambridge. The fragrant, filtered atmosphere seemed a world away from the dingy Delhi streets just outside.
First thing in the morning, we rushed out to the red fort where we were the first ones in the gate when it opened. The f(sm)og was so thick, you would get very close to the buildings before they would fade into view. It was very dramatic. A nice group of employees at the fort gave us some of their piping hot chai, which was a real treat. Then it was back to Connaught for a quick Cappuccino at Cafe Coffee Day (highly recommended) before we grabbed a tut-tut (three-wheeled, motorized rickshaw) for the 20km trip to the airport (brisk!).
In the midst of a host of f(sm)og related delays and cancellations, our flight to Kathmandu got out on time and we lifted quickly up out of the cloud. During another excellent Jet Air flight (a full meal served during a 90 minute hop, with free beer!) we observed what appeared to be a thin line of clouds on the northern horizon solidify into continuous line of snow-capped mountain tops, that were almost as high as we were. When we touched down at a sunny, 65 degree Kathmandu at the foot of the Himalayas, it felt like paradise.
Prayer Flags Welcome us to Nepal
Despite our guide book's warnings of near-apolcalyptic traffic and choking smog, we found Kathmandu to be charming and pleasant next to our most recent environs. Our hotel is amazing. We booked a deluxe room for $19/night and were thrilled when they put us in a 6th floor penthouse with a huge rooftop terrace. Free airport pickup and internet were included as well! We have spent the day exploring the city's Thamel area and are really enjoying it. It's almost a shame, but we are leaving tomorrow for Pokhara, springboard to some of the coutry's most popular trekking routes. We head out on a 7am 7-hour bus ride, which is said to have some superb scenery. More pictures soon!
We did sleep through new years, although I was temporarily roused by the cannon-like fireworks. I think they go for sound over visual in Delhi because there is no way you could possibly see fireworks through the smog. For our last day in Delhi we got on a bus tour of the city which brought us around to some of the popular sights. One highlight for us were the India gate, where we were something of an attraction ourselves among the Indian tourists several posed for pictures with us while others handed over their wives or babies to be photographed with the westerners. Another was the Baha'i temple, a fantastic structure in the shape of a 27 leaf lotus blossom. Unfortunately, the crowds were so thick here that we couldn't get very close, but it was amazing even from a distance.
The Baha'i Temple in New Delhi
We got back to the hotel and did our best to freshen up in our ascetic accommodations, and headed out to a superb meal at the Spice Route restaurant at the Imperial hotel (thanks Danielle and Lee!). At this point we discovered where all the westerners had been hiding. This place was over-the-top, both in terms of food and service, but was priced similar to a typical restaurant in Cambridge. The fragrant, filtered atmosphere seemed a world away from the dingy Delhi streets just outside.
First thing in the morning, we rushed out to the red fort where we were the first ones in the gate when it opened. The f(sm)og was so thick, you would get very close to the buildings before they would fade into view. It was very dramatic. A nice group of employees at the fort gave us some of their piping hot chai, which was a real treat. Then it was back to Connaught for a quick Cappuccino at Cafe Coffee Day (highly recommended) before we grabbed a tut-tut (three-wheeled, motorized rickshaw) for the 20km trip to the airport (brisk!).
Prayer Flags Welcome us to NepalDespite our guide book's warnings of near-apolcalyptic traffic and choking smog, we found Kathmandu to be charming and pleasant next to our most recent environs. Our hotel is amazing. We booked a deluxe room for $19/night and were thrilled when they put us in a 6th floor penthouse with a huge rooftop terrace. Free airport pickup and internet were included as well! We have spent the day exploring the city's Thamel area and are really enjoying it. It's almost a shame, but we are leaving tomorrow for Pokhara, springboard to some of the coutry's most popular trekking routes. We head out on a 7am 7-hour bus ride, which is said to have some superb scenery. More pictures soon!
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Agra and Back
Delhi, India
With a sigh of relief we met our guide to Agra at 6am on Wednesday morning. a 27 year old accounting student with a very pleasant personality. We decided that we liked Vicky very much (it didn't hurt that we all found it hysterical that our names rhymed). The trip to Agra was approximately 4 hours by car. We had initially intended to take the train, but it was completely sold out. The roads here are crazy! In Delhi, we assumed the roads were crazy because we were in a major city of 15 million people. But no, Delhi roads are actually just slow motion versions of the rest of the country. With so many different speeds: cows, walkers, bicycles, rickshaws, tractors, trucks, motorcycles, and cars vying for the same two lanes on the road, you can only imagine the chaos that ensues.
On arrival at Agra we immediately went to the Taj Mahal. It was very impressive, huge, white, intricate, and in amazing condition. We were surprised to see so few westerners, and so many Indian tourists. They came in droves, with their entire families and posed for pictures. It was really nice to see such big families traveling together. We started trying to estimate how many people were there, but we couldn't there were a lot. Photographing a white building with foggy smog in the background was a challenge, but hopefully we got some good ones.
After the Taj Mahal we went to the Red Fort which was impressive in a completely different way. Rather than a lone curiosity, it was an entire environment to explore. It felt especially different because for the first time in two days we found ourselves alone after a turn into some intricately carved chambers. Even if it was only for a moment, we felt like we were really exploring something on our own.
We then had our first real Indian meal which was just what we had hoped for and immediately crashed upon our arrival at the hotel. The 5pm bedtime was typical for our stay so far, but this time we were able to sleep until 4am. This morning we saw two other tombs before we hit the road back to Dehli. They were all amazing in their own unique way. One so large that there were herds of deer inside the gates. The other an artistic predecessor of the Taj Mahal which provided some context for the architecture of the period.
We are now back in Delhi hoping to try to stay up late enough to celebrate New Years. It seems to be a long shot, and we will probably end up celebrating it tomorrow on NY time. Happy New Year to everyone! We appreciate all the comments and emails! Keep 'em coming.
P.S. sorry for the lack of pictures, we left our card reader back at the hostel.
With a sigh of relief we met our guide to Agra at 6am on Wednesday morning. a 27 year old accounting student with a very pleasant personality. We decided that we liked Vicky very much (it didn't hurt that we all found it hysterical that our names rhymed). The trip to Agra was approximately 4 hours by car. We had initially intended to take the train, but it was completely sold out. The roads here are crazy! In Delhi, we assumed the roads were crazy because we were in a major city of 15 million people. But no, Delhi roads are actually just slow motion versions of the rest of the country. With so many different speeds: cows, walkers, bicycles, rickshaws, tractors, trucks, motorcycles, and cars vying for the same two lanes on the road, you can only imagine the chaos that ensues.
On arrival at Agra we immediately went to the Taj Mahal. It was very impressive, huge, white, intricate, and in amazing condition. We were surprised to see so few westerners, and so many Indian tourists. They came in droves, with their entire families and posed for pictures. It was really nice to see such big families traveling together. We started trying to estimate how many people were there, but we couldn't there were a lot. Photographing a white building with foggy smog in the background was a challenge, but hopefully we got some good ones.
After the Taj Mahal we went to the Red Fort which was impressive in a completely different way. Rather than a lone curiosity, it was an entire environment to explore. It felt especially different because for the first time in two days we found ourselves alone after a turn into some intricately carved chambers. Even if it was only for a moment, we felt like we were really exploring something on our own.
We then had our first real Indian meal which was just what we had hoped for and immediately crashed upon our arrival at the hotel. The 5pm bedtime was typical for our stay so far, but this time we were able to sleep until 4am. This morning we saw two other tombs before we hit the road back to Dehli. They were all amazing in their own unique way. One so large that there were herds of deer inside the gates. The other an artistic predecessor of the Taj Mahal which provided some context for the architecture of the period.
We are now back in Delhi hoping to try to stay up late enough to celebrate New Years. It seems to be a long shot, and we will probably end up celebrating it tomorrow on NY time. Happy New Year to everyone! We appreciate all the comments and emails! Keep 'em coming.
P.S. sorry for the lack of pictures, we left our card reader back at the hostel.
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
We are sooo Jet Lagged...
New Delhi, India (EST+10.5h)
After one typically disappointing on an american carrier we were delighted to discover that India's Jet airlines is awesome. With over 30 movies to chose from, we spend the flight fully entertained and well fed including ice cream for dessert. After 20 hours of travelling, we made it safely to Delhi. Our hotel is conveniently located at Connaught Place, which is right in the center of New Delhi. With only an hour's sleep last night, our ambitions for today were minimal. We were able to book a trip to Agra and accommodations for the rest of our week here. We did undertake a little walking tour, during which we decided were the most popular people in Delhi, as we were constantly accosted by local residents. Some wanted to sell us things, but many just wanted to chat with a westerner and practice their english. Now to dodge the cows and rickshaws back to our hotel, where hopefully we can finally catch some z's.
After one typically disappointing on an american carrier we were delighted to discover that India's Jet airlines is awesome. With over 30 movies to chose from, we spend the flight fully entertained and well fed including ice cream for dessert. After 20 hours of travelling, we made it safely to Delhi. Our hotel is conveniently located at Connaught Place, which is right in the center of New Delhi. With only an hour's sleep last night, our ambitions for today were minimal. We were able to book a trip to Agra and accommodations for the rest of our week here. We did undertake a little walking tour, during which we decided were the most popular people in Delhi, as we were constantly accosted by local residents. Some wanted to sell us things, but many just wanted to chat with a westerner and practice their english. Now to dodge the cows and rickshaws back to our hotel, where hopefully we can finally catch some z's.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
All our bags are packed we're ready to go...
Wow! The big day is here. Even after so much planning and thinking about the trip, I guess you never feel quite ready to walk out the door. We'd love to write down some amusing anecdotes, but right now, there is quite a rush of adrenaline (and some stress) so we'll leave that to the next post. Next time you hear from us, we'll be on the other side of the world!
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Getting Ready
Fair Lawn, New Jersey, USA
With less than a week until our departure, we are frantically trying to get everything in order before we go. We spent most of the morning yesterday in line at the travisa center in Manhattan. This is the outfit to which the India consulate has outsourced its visa application process (ironic isn't it?). Despite a longish wait in line, we managed to get visas, and made some friends in the process. One of them was a Princeton student writing his thesis on the son of the king who built the Taj Mahal. This guy was an outstanding source of information on Indian history. Who knew the architects and builders of the giant white tomb were subsequently maimed so they could never repeat the feat. We also met an Indian gentleman who told us all about the traumatic India/Pakistan partition. We will certainly have a lot to learn in a few short days when we get there.
With less than a week until our departure, we are frantically trying to get everything in order before we go. We spent most of the morning yesterday in line at the travisa center in Manhattan. This is the outfit to which the India consulate has outsourced its visa application process (ironic isn't it?). Despite a longish wait in line, we managed to get visas, and made some friends in the process. One of them was a Princeton student writing his thesis on the son of the king who built the Taj Mahal. This guy was an outstanding source of information on Indian history. Who knew the architects and builders of the giant white tomb were subsequently maimed so they could never repeat the feat. We also met an Indian gentleman who told us all about the traumatic India/Pakistan partition. We will certainly have a lot to learn in a few short days when we get there.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)